I'm not sure what I expected from Hiroshima, but it certainly wasn't the thriving, modern city that confronted us as we first got off the bullet train. That said, it wasn't long before we passed the first reminder of what happened here almost 65 years ago, in the form of the A-bomb Dome. The Industrial Promotions Hall (as it was in 1945) has been preserved exactly as it was in the immediate wake of the bombing; a reminder of the devastating consequences of atomic war. Whilst the city has healed, and seems today like a really relaxed place (reminded us a bit of Chicago) it still has a very deliberate mission - to one day see global nuclear disarmament.  For example, the mayor of the city still writes a letter of complaint every single time a country carries out a nuclear test.

We stayed in the World Friendship Centre, a hostel run by an antinuclear nonprofit organisation, currently in the guise of Ron and Barb, our honorary grandparents during our stay. They were an incredibly sweet and inspiring couple who have worked on several volunteer projects since their retirement a few years ago, including working with the families of prison inmates in the US. At the end of this project (about this time next year) they're going back to the States to build an ethically-friendly house in New Mexico.  They were nothing but helpful and nothing but welcoming - would definitely recommend a stay here to anyone who finds themselves in the area.

Kasaoka-san today

We visited the Peace Memorial Museum almost as soon as we arrived, which was, needless to say, a pretty harrowing experience - especially the stories about all of the children who lost their lives as a result of the bomb. However, nothing could have prepared us for our meeting with a hibakusha (an A-bomb survivor) called Mrs Kasaoka back at the Museum the next morning.  She lost both of her parents in the blast aged just 12, and only survived herself because she was given a day off from her wartime duties on the 6th August. Yet somehow, over the years, she has continued to survive, despite losing her husband and many friends as a result of the long-term effects of radiation. Her story was deeply moving, but something we're very glad we had the opportunity to hear.




But our time spent in Hiroshima had its lighter moments too, notably when Sarah thought she was enjoying some kind of slow-burn cop show on TV (pre-the dramatic car chase), only to discover what she'd actually been following was the CCTV footage of 2 stationary cars in front of the noodle bar where we were eating dinner.



We also took a day-trip to nearby Miyajima, of floating-tori-gate fame, and one of Japan's '3 best views' according to the travellers' version of the Bible, the Lonely Planet. The island was beautiful, and against our better judgement we decided to climb to the top of Mount Misen, the highest point of the island at some 535 metres. It was a long old trek up through primeval rainforest, but we felt a real sense of (sweaty) achievement on reaching the top. Unable to face walking back down we took the 'ropeway' option, which boasted not one, but two types of cable car for tourists' enjoyment.

There was just time to see 'the largest rice spoon in the world TM' before we had to catch a ferry back to the mainland.

Our Osakan adventure awaits next, scene of James's misspent youth as an English teacher....