The Blue Mountains were not what I expected at all. They aren't in fact mountains, but a series of high gorges and deep canyons filled with eucalyptus trees. They're called the Blue Mountains because when the eucalyptus trees respire their moisture has a bluish tinge, which gives the whole area a misty ethereal feel.

We spent a fantastic 2 days and 2 nights walking, cooking and making the most of the fire. Whilst it was pretty cold, we were really lucky with the weather: it was sunny and clear, giving us epic views throughout. Thanks to Tim's generous wine supplies we also got through a considerable volume of red and white grapes, fortunately remaining hangover-free. Although I did think I was hallucinating at one point when, 40 minutes into a walk, we stumbled upon a small group of teenage boys 'making a short film' at the top of a waterfall. The plot seemed to involve two of the boys wearing capes and pointing at each other. Coming soon to a cinema near you, no doubt.

For the first 25 years of the English colony in Australia, the Blue Mountains were a problem – they acted as a barrier to inland expansion. It was only in 1813 that 3 men (Gregory Blaxland, William Charles Wentworth and William Lawson), managed to break through to the other side. Having started as an obstacle to overcome, by the 1930s they had become a destination to escape to. Since then people have been coming for weekend breaks, and so a number of villages have grown up to cater for the tourist trade. Katoomba was full of nice cafes and delis, where we stopped to pick up supplies of Tim's beloved snag jam (or slag jam, as it has since been rechristened) and drink hot chocolate (for the girls) and strawberry milkshakes (for the boys). Blackheath was a small-time town, but it did boast the most amazing antique store you have ever seen: a ramshackle warehouse sprawling across two levels, selling everything from vintage clothing to furniture to books with such gripping titles as 'Confessions of a Lesbian Ex-Nun' and 'The Most Dangerous Places to Visit on Earth,' which James very nearly bought, just in case we ever decide to visit the Democratic Republic of Congo or Iran.